Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Canning

This week Court and I decided to try a new cooking experience (new for me not for her): Canning. For those of you who don't really know how it works, canning is actually fairly straightforward. The goal is to generate relatively sterile goods that have a long shelf life. We chose two recipes that come from my relatives in New Brunswick, Canada. The first recipe is an old family favorite that my grandmother makes: dilly beans (really they are called dilled beans but we always called them dilly beans as kids). The second recipe we canned was my Aunt Kathy and Uncle Lenny's tomato salsa. We were lucky enough to get to try some of this salsa when we were recently up in Canada for my cousin Megan's wedding.

To begin with, we heated water in a large (18 qts. I think) pot to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Into this water we added all of the canning jars and lids we were going to use. The reason for not boiling the jars is that the lids have a rubberized seal that doesn't like temperatures that high. However, 180 degrees is sufficient to kill most bacteria (there is a notable exception that I will discuss later). We held the jars at 180 for 10-15 minutes (until immediately before we needed them). We then added the ingredients into the jars. The ingredients were all either boiled or covered with a boiling liquid to about 1/2" from the top. Being careful not to touch the inside or the seal of the lids we put a lid on each jar and then screwed on the threaded lid until they were finger tight. The jars are then dropped into boiling water in the big pot for several minutes (5 in our case) to "process" the jars. Basically you are raising the temperature in the jar to do two things. First you are essentially Pasteurizing the contents of the jar to kill any bacteria that have snuck in, and second you are heating the air in the jar, which expands and when the jar cools creates a vacuum seal. The jars are then allowed to cool and you now have a canned food with a longer shelf life.

The type of canning we used is boiling canning. This type of canning is good for high acid foods like tomatoes, pickles, jams and jellies and acidic fruits. For low acid foods like vegetables you have to use a pressure canning method. Pressure canning utilizes what is essentially a pressure cooker to raise the temperature of the cans above the 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The reason for this is that nastiest of nasties, Clostridium botulinum. C. botulinum is the causative agent of botulism, a deadly form of food poisoning. Why is the boiling method of canning not sufficient to combat C. botulinum? It has to do with the biology of this specific bacteria. Clostridia family members belong to a group of bacteria that under adverse environmental conditions form what is called a "spore". This spore is highly resistant to the things we like to use to kill bacteria. As a side note Bacillus anthracis, the causative agent of anthrax also belongs to this group of bacteria. Boiling is not sufficient to kill C. botulinum spores, which if they get into your canned goods will hatch out into mature bacteria that will produce the toxin that gives you botulism. High acid foods are safe because C. botulinum can't grow in acidic environments, so boiling is sufficient.

We are waiting to see how the dilly beans turn out (they need some time to pickle) but we know the salsa is good. If I get a chance I'll put the recipes we used up on the blog sometime in the future.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Rosemary-Thyme Bread

This weekend Court and I tried our first modification of the "Perfect Loaf" recipe that was posted here on September 9th. One of the nice things about the recipe is that you can make a lot of changes or additions to make specialty breads. We chose to add some fresh herbs from the garden. After mixing the ingredients we added 2 tablespoons of minced rosemary and about a teaspoon of minced thyme (prior to the first rise). We have heard that bigger more dense ingredients (e.g. nuts or olives) should be added right before the second rise to prevent them from settling to the bottom of the loaf. Adding the minced herbs before the first rise worked well, however. After the first rise we could see the small flecks of rosemary and thyme throughout the sponge. Already the smell of the fresh herbs was permeating the bread.

The second rise, third rise and baking went off normally and we were rewarded with a wonderful savory, herb bread. It is great on its own and it makes excellent toast. This morning I added a little grated asiago cheese at the end of the toasting... very good.

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Korean spicy paste

Ever since I was introduced to it in college, I've loved dishes that use Korean spicy paste (sometimes also called gochujang). It's very spicy, but is also made with rice and a bit of sugar, so it's sticky and a little sweet as well. I usually just put it in stir fries, but we recently tried this healthy and easy recipe from Gourmet magazine. Here's the link to epicurious.com and here's our version of the receipe as well (the original isn't very spicy)

Spicy soba noodles with mushrooms and cabbage

Sauce:
1/2 cup warm water
2 Tsp soy sauce
3 or more Tbs of Korean spicy paste
1 Tbs honey
Noodles:
3 Tbs sesame seeds
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 Tbs finely chopped or grated ginger
2 cloves finely chopped garlic
1/2 lb stemmed and sliced shiitake mushrooms
1 smaller (1 lb) napa cabbage, thinly sliced
6 scallions, thinly sliced
8 oz soba noodles
1 cup shelled frozen edamame

Stir together all of the sauce ingredients and set aside. Toast the sesame seeds in a skillet until they start to turn golden (burnt come fairly rapidly after this, so watch them), and then move a bowl. Set some water to boil for the noodles, and add some salt. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium-high heat, and then saute the ginger and garlic until they release fragrance, around 30 seconds to a minute. Add the mushrooms and saute until the mushroom start to become tender. Reduce the heat and the add the scallions and cabbage, and cook down 6-8 minutes.

While the cabbage is cooking down, add the soba noodles and edamame to the boiling water. Cook this ~6 minutes or according to the instructions on the package. Drain when done, and add to a large bowl. Add the sesame seeds and veggies and stir.

Baking the perfect loaf

I'm sure I'm the last person to blog about this amazing bread reciepe, but here is goes if you're not familiar with it. This is a modified version of a receipe printed in the New York Times earlier this year, and disscussed at length by Jeffrey Steingarten in Vogue. The trick is that it's a very wet dough that undergoes the first rise for 18-24 hours, and is then baked in a very hot oven in a oven-proof casserole to bake consistently all around. There is no kneading. Which sounds crazy, but it produces a perfect country loaf with a hard exterior and spongy holey bread inside.
Here is is:
3 cups bread flour (can substitue some all-purpose)
3 tsp kosher salt (less if using fine salt)
1 package of dry active yeast or 1 tsp of instant yeast
1 1/2 cup of room temperature water
coarse wheat bran or semolina
You'll also need an ovenproof casserole and a clean tea towel

Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. If you're using instant yeast, add it as well. If you're using dry active yeast, proof the yeast (you're "proving" that it works) in 1/2 cup of tepid water (yeast grow at 30 degrees C, and you're at 37 degrees C, so warm but not as hot as you are!), and let sit for 10-15 minutes. Combine the yeast water/ and the other cup of water (do 1 1/2 cups total) with the flour with your fingers or a wooden spoon, just so all of the flour is rehydrated. Cover the bowl well with cling wrap and leave leave in a warm place for 18-24 hours.

The second rise and baking take around 3 hours, so plan accordingly. Thoroughly flour a surface to work on (I meant it about the wet dough), and roll the dought out on it. Dust the dough with flour, and then attempt to spread into a 10 x 10 inch square. Fold this into thirds (over itself) and let sit 15 minutes. Fold in thirds again in the other direction (vertically if the first was folded horizontally) to make a cube. Tuck the folds under the sides so it looks like a smooth ball on top. Heavily flour the middle of your tea towel and sprinkle some of the bran or semolina. Move the dough onto the floured towel and cover with the rest of the towel or some cling wrap. Leave for 2 hours. In the second hour heat your oven as high as it will go (500-550 degrees F) and put the empty casserole inside. After the two hour rise, carefully take the dough away from the towel and put the ball into the casserole. Bake for 30 minutes with the cover on, then another 20-30 (20 is usually enough in our not very hot oven) to finish. Let this sit for 45 minutes or until cool before cutting into it. You won't want to do this, but if you cut right in the steam will escape and you'll end up with a lot of dry bread.

I haven't tried adding much to the bread yet, but some obvious possible additions are pepper, rosemary, nuts, dried fruit, or whatever herbs you have growing in the garden.

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

It's like buttah!

A few weeks ago Court sent me a link to a New York Times article from the food section (you won't be able to see the page unless you have the NY Times online subscription-thingy). Essentially the article explains how, using a standard stand mixer, one can make butter at home. Obviously the foodie in Court and I had it's interest piqued. In the article grandiose claims were made about the quality of this homemade butter.

So a few weekends ago I bought some Whole Foods brand heavy cream and brought it home. After a grand total of about fifteen minutes of work we had on our hands about a pound (probably slightly more... in the neighborhood of 2 pounds) of fantastic homemade butter. The claims in the NY Times article were not wrong. The butter had the flavor and consistency of the butter you get at very fine restaurants. Furthermore you could make the argument that it is a little teensy bit healthier than store bought butter as we added no salt whatsoever during the process (even unsalted commercial butter typically has salt added during processing). I know claims of healthy butter are a bit of a stretch, but whatever.

For the cost of 6 cups of heavy cream (~$5.37 + taxes) we got approximately 2 pounds of butter and 4 cups of buttermilk. The buttermilk is also a great cooking reagent. Unlike the processed slightly sour buttermilk one finds in the store, this buttermilk is very light with a hint of sweetness to it. The Times article lists several recipes that make use of this homemade buttermilk as well as the fantastic butter you get from this process. Here is how it goes:

Ingredients:
6 cups heavy cream
salt (optional)

Place the heavy cream in the bowl of your stand mixer. Use the balloon whisk attachment. Carefully wrap the top of the bowl with cling film to protect your walls, ceiling and self from spraying cream. When you have the bowl nice and sealed off, turn the stand mixer to medium high speed. Let it go for a while. You will notice the cream picking up air and eventually it will look like the stuff that comes out of a can. Congratulations, you have just made whipped cream. Whipped cream is not what we want, however, so continue to let the mixer run. In 6-8 minutes you will notice a subtle change in the character of the cream. It will first get hard and have very stiff peaks. Then it will become almost pebbly in texture. Finally it will begin to change color ever so slightly and become yellowish. At about this point the fat solids that you've been smashing around with the mixer will separate from the buttermilk. When buttermilk starts splashing up against the plastic wrap you will know you are done. Stop the machine and strain the butter/buttermilk mixture through a fine sieve. What you will have in the sieve is a very soggy butter so you need to get the rest of the buttermilk out of there. To do this just take your hopefully clean hands (if they aren't, wash them... shame on you) and begin to knead the butter in the strainer. This kneading serves two purposes: it gets rid of the buttermilk and begins to give the butter its creamy texture. When you've got all the milk out and the butter has a nice consistency divide it up into appropriate sized chunks. Put some in the fridge and freeze the rest for later use. If you want you can mix salt into the butter after you've kneaded it for a bit. Salt will contribute to the taste as well as serve as a preservative.

Things we've done with the butter:
Bread and butter (with a pinch of salt for flavor)
Used it in various cooking applications (fried eggs, scrambled eggs, baking, etc.)

Things I'd like to try with the butter:
Making clarified butter
Make compound butter with herbs

Remember to keep the buttermilk, too! It can be used in place of that sour stuff you get at the store, but keep in mind the flavor is quite different.

-Nick

Thursday, July 5, 2007

4th of July Kebabs?!

Yesterday, the 4th of July (birthdate of this great country) Court and I decided to try a recipe that we'd recently seen on Tyler's Ultimate, the show of one of the Food Network's celebrity chefs, Tyler Florence. Generally we are a little leery of Mr. Florence's work due again to our petty dislikes of certain aspects of his on-show personality and his dubious affiliation with Applebees. However, when a recipe looks good, a recipe looks good.

The basis of the recipe is a chicken kebab. Now I know in these "Times of Terror" a less enlightened patriot might question the making of food from the middle east for a 4th of July celebration, but have no fear. This recipe was actually of italian descent via Mexico at heart. Mexico?? Not much better than middle-eastern, say you? Let the author state that we had no political reasoning for our choice of July 4th meals. It just looked like a good summery meal that involved that wonderful culinary invention, the grill.

The recipe essentially involves a rehashing of that old classic, the Caesar salad. Chicken, Italian sausage and large hunks of bread are put on a kebab and doused with olive oil before being put on the grill. Tyler Florence also put bay leaves between each meat/bread combo on the skewers, but we only had dried bay that would've crumbled if we tried to stick it on so we omitted this. The kebabs are cooked to doneness on the grill and then put over romaine lettuce leaves and dressed with a classic Caesar dressing. We made the dressing from scratch and used a bastard version of Tyler Florence's recipe and the recipe Julia Child used in Julia & Jacques Cooking at Home. Because we sort of made it up as we went along I don't feel bad in putting the recipe here:

1 lemon
2 egg yolks
1 garlic glove, peeled
1 anchovy fillet or the equivalent in paste (apparently not used in the original Caesar salad recipe)
1 tsp. mustard (I used the smoother Dijon, but I suppose you could use whole grain)
Several dashes of Worcestershire Sauce
1/4 cup (ish) of Olive Oil
salt and pepper to taste

Combine the egg yolks and the juice from the lemon in a food processor. Add the garlic, anchovy fillet or paste, salt and pepper and the mustard. Blend these together until they are uniform in consistency and the lemon juice is emulsified somewhat. Now with the food processor running drizzle in the olive oil until the consistency is right for a salad dressing. Now adjust the lemon juice, salt and pepper as necessary and add the Worcestershire sauce in a few steps, tasting between each addition until you have the flavor you want. Toss your lettuce, chicken, sausage and grilled "croutons" in the dressing. Enjoy.

-Nick

P.S. As a little aside. In Julia & Jacques Cooking at Home there is a little anecdote regarding Caesar salad by Julia Child, who grew up in San Diego, CA. She and her family visited Tijuana and ate at the restaurant of Caesar Cardini, inventor of the Caesar salad. She gives a wonderful description of how the true "classic Caesar salad" was prepared at the table. This anecdote explains that despite people's misconception that the Caesar salad is a reference to the Roman tyrants, it is in fact an invention of an Italian living in Tijuana, Mexico. Don't believe me? Check out the Wikipedia page. Checking the Wiki page will show you that originally it was Worcestershire sauce and not anchovy that gave the dressing its distinctive flavor. We included both, as well as garlic which was not in the original recipe.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Nigella Lawson has no soul?!

Court and I were watching the cooking show Nigella's Feast on the Food Network. For those of you who aren't familiar Nigella Lawson is a British woman with a cooking show and a series of cookbooks. Her personality is very odd, especially for a TV personality and I haven't quite made up my mind about her, yet. As far as I know she has never worked in the food service industry and seems to be a wealthy housewife type. She has a bizarre habit of very aggressively stating that she hates healthy food and hates eating small portions. Anyway, we are watching her make her "healthy food" (which she hates) and she comments that something would be great for her soul. I wasn't really paying all the much attention, but I could've sworn she then said, "If I had a soul..."

So you've heard it here first: Nigella Lawson has no soul. I suppose she sold it to the devil in payment for fame and fortune or something. It would explain why such an odd personality is so popular on TV...

Recent stuff we've made:
Coriander and Cumin patties from Mangoes & Curry Leaves by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. These are hands down the best hamburgers I've ever had. They don't need anything in the way of condiments, although Court likes a little extra yogurt on them. Server them bare or in lettuce leaves.

We made a nice salad from Jamie Oliver's The Naked Chef. The salad consists of roasted chilis, shredded basil leaves and olive oil sprinkled over torn mozzarella cheese. The coolness of the cheese complements the spicy chili really well. We also threw in some grilled pork chops topped with basil and pinenut pesto (from Jamie's book as well). I learned that Purple Basil (we've been growing some in the garden) makes a very odd-looking pesto. It tastes fine but looks almost like a black olive tapenade...

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Anthony Bourdain's No Reservation

I wanted to mention a show that Court and I have become big fans of: Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. For those who aren't familiar with Anthony Bourdain he is the executive chef at Brasserie Les Halles in New York City. He is of french extraction but grew up in New Jersey. On No Reservations, Bourdain travels around the world and tries the interesting and often odd (to us Americans) cuisines of different countries. Bourdain is crass and a harsh critic but surprisingly, given is brash nature, seems to look for the best in every situation. He is especially fond, it seems, of the cuisines of the countryside in the various countries he visits and is always polite and grateful to those people... this is saying a lot when you see some of the stuff he ends up eating. If you like travel and are interested in different foods from around the world you should check out the show on the Travel Channel. However, if you are squeamish about seeing people eat offal (or sometimes just plain awful) or if you are a big fan of the likes of the celebrity chefs Rachel Ray or Bobby Flay this is not the show for you.

Dinner last night:
Swordfish steak with basil and pine nut pesto
Green beans sauteed in garlic and black bean sauce
Mustard greens (from our garden) braised with garlic, dried red chili and chicken stock.

-Nick

Monday, June 18, 2007

First post

My fiancee, Courtney, and I love to cook. It is something we've done together almost since day one of our relationship. Periodically we decide to try a new cuisine or style of cooking and attempt to learn as much as we can about the cultural and culinary aspects of that cuisine or style. I'm hoping to use this blog as a way to chronicle our journey through the world of cooking.

Recent things we've made:
Sangria
Actually we put together quite a few tapas recipes using some of the Food Network's suggested recipes.
Just yesterday Court and I began to delve into the world of home brewing again. We have created "Daddy's I.P.A." in honor of Father's Day. I'll let you know how that turns out in a few weeks.

I'll leave this post at that...